May 13, 2021
Pre-Owned Picks: An A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatic, A Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520, And A Cartier Tortue
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This Week's Pre-Owned Favorites
At HODINKEE, we're constantly striving to curate a wide assortment of watches that reflects the diversity within our community. You've probably noticed that in our pre-owned drops we offer a little bit of everything, from avant-garde pieces to the timeless. This week's selection is no different, but if anything, it skews a bit classic.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA347
A classic – whether in the watches, fashion, film, literature, or TV – is called so for a reason. Classics supersede trends and tread a fine line between being accessible, distinct, and memorable. A classic watch is quite possibly the best investment you can make. Sure, it's fun to have a few bold or funky watches in your assortment, that's the beauty of watch collecting. But there's just something to be said about the value of a classic. It's not only inherently timeless but also the protagonist of an ever-evolving story, whether that's on the wrist of various family members as it's passed down through generations or simply like the pre-owned models we have here.
Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 With Black Tritium Dial
Perhaps you'd like to play a part in the story of the highly coveted stainless steel variation of the Rolex Daytona, or maybe you want to carry on the lineage of one of the first Spring Drive models out of Grand Seiko's independent catalog. Instead, a low-key 40mm Rolex Explorer II or the unique shape of the Cartier Tortue might be more your style. Maybe you want a more elevated classic, like a hand-wound IWC Portuguese or an A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatic.
IWC Portuguese Hand-Wound Ref. IW5454-04
Whether you define a classic as a dress watch or sport watch, by the historical significance of a movement, a maker or a material, a classic is an essential in any collection. Explore the full assortment here , plus a few other experimental alternatives, or read on to learn more about our editors' picks this week.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatic Ref. 380.032 In 18k Pink Gold
By Logan Baker
I've been deep in the weeds on an upcoming A. Lange & Söhne editorial project over the past few weeks (stay tuned!), so when this Saxonia Automatic arrived in today's HODINKEE Pre-Owned selection, it was a welcome sight. Unlike the other project I'm working on, this A. Lange & Söhne is an excellent example of an underappreciated genre these days – that of the three-handed, precious metal dress watch.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatic Ref. 380.032 In 18k Pink Gold
With an in-house movement inside – and visible through a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback (#LangeTax) – this is one of the thinnest self-winding watches A. Lange & Söhne currently produces. And the 38.5mm pink gold case ensures that it's a real peach on the wrist, too. Check out this watch in full detail right here .
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520 With Black Dial
By Rich Fordon
It's pretty surprising that this is our first stainless steel Daytona in HODINKEE Pre-Owned. From the outset, we've wanted to offer one. I remember making a "wish-list" before we even had a plan for putting watches on the site, and included there was a ref. 116520 Daytona. This is the watch I've been excited about – the black dial, stainless steel case, in-house caliber 4130 movement, Rolex Daytona.
I keep coming back to this one phrase or notion I heard over the past year when viewing, thinking about, and wearing a Rolex Daytona. The idea is this: While my gut reaction is that of a contrarian, the greatest, most talked about things often earn that widely accepted reputation because they're actually that good and, many times, the best. When it comes to a true sport chronograph, it's just hard to beat a Daytona. So, while the watch is ubiquitous at this point and plastered all over Instagram, in the end, all the love is justified.
Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520 With Black Dial
This generation of the Daytona is probably as under-the-radar as a Daytona can get. Aesthetically, this watch looks nearly identical to the 1990s Daytonas under the 16500 references with the exception of the chronograph sub-register layout on the dial. For the ref. 116520, the left and right sub-registers are slightly higher, their centers sitting above the central hand stack – this is a quick way of identifying a Rolex cal. 4130 powered Daytona. A lion in the brush, the ref. 116520 is the first Daytona with an in-house movement, and there will never be another first.
The ceramic bezeled Daytona of late has enjoyed a lot of success by looking back at the model's vintage examples for inspiration. Wearing this particular example of the 116520 on my wrist, I appreciate the neo-vintage feel and vibe calling to the "Zenith" Daytona as well as the wink of ref. 6263 "Big Red" with the red "DAYTONA" text. It's just enough for me. Here, I'm reminded of the rich history of the watch while allowing this generation to be its own thing. View it in all its glory right here .
Cartier Tortue Ref. W1556361 In 18k White Gold
By Cait Bazemore
I always appreciated Cartier watches, but since joining the team at HODINKEE, my love has grown into a mild obsession. Between the handful of pre-owned models we've offered and the beauties that sweep across the vintage desks, I've continually found myself checking my bank account and performing series of calculations to see if I've finally reached Cartier status. One time, a co-worker and I even went so far as to discuss if we could go in on a Cartier together and timeshare the watch. Okay, maybe it's not a mild obsession, it's a full blown one.
Cartier Tortue Ref. W1556361 In 18k White Gold
As a female collector in particular, I feel like owning a Cartier is a rite of passage. When asked about her grail watch, even our new Deputy Editor Nora Taylor quickly answered "Cartier" (more specifically, every version of the Cartier Tank – dare to dream!). I've really been hard pressed to find a Cartier I don't like, and this Tortue is no exception. While not as widely known or popular as a Tank or a Santos, the Tortue has long been a staple of the Cartier catalog. In fact, it was the third model introduced by the brand back in 1912. It incorporates all of Cartier's classic design language – the Roman numeral hour markers, the blued steel hands, the sapphire cabochon crown – in a unique tonneau or tortoise shell-shaped package. Please, go snatch up what's yet another perfect Cartier passing through the Shop right here before I use next month's rent money to make it my own.
The Best Of The Rest
So, classic just isn't your style or isn't what your collection is craving right now? No sweat. We still have some standout pieces for you in this week's drop if you're looking for a watch with a bit more flair. If you want a fun pop of color and technical prowess to boot, we have a killer Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer. This blue-dialed variation with red accents would make the ideal watch for summer.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Ref. 263-88 With Blue Dial
OMEGA Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial 41mm 'Spectre' Limited Edition
Of course, we can't have a pre-owned drop without a limited edition, and this week, we have two. First, there's an OMEGA Seamaster 300 "Spectre" LE. If you're anything like us, you're waiting with bated breath for the latest Bond film to drop after years in the making. Until it finally hits theaters, this model could help tide you over. We also welcome a Breitling Chrono-Matic Limited Edition that would serve equally well as a go-to summer model.
Panerai Mare Nostrum PAM 716 Limited Edition
Last but not least among our more avant-garde pieces is a Panerai Mare Nostrum. This model defies the typical Panerai DNA with a somewhat more traditional build while maintaining a bold presence on the wrist. With a more subdued blue color scheme compared to the Ulysse Nardin but an equally aquatic, summer feel, this would be another great option if you're looking to spice up your collection with something more off the beaten path.
Browse all these watches, along with those featured by the team and teased in the intro, right hereWatches we love, the second time around.