April 07, 2021
Introducing: A Panerai That's Almost Entirely Recycled
Quick Take
With few exceptions, mechanical watches are made to last – but they're still often built with virgin materials. So Panerai has made a significant breakthrough with the Submersible eLAB-ID, which is constructed from 98.6% recycled-based materials by weight. Panerai is announcing the watch, along with a list of the suppliers who helped make it, in order to provide a model for how circular watchmaking practices can apply to the watch industry. The brand describes this piece as "the watch with the highest percentage of recycled-based material ever made."
Much of the Submersible eLAB-ID – the case, the sandwich dial, and the movement bridges – is made of a material called EcoTitanium. This recycled titanium alloy is a lightweight, aerospace-grade metal that's made of more than 80% pure recycled content. The Submersible eLAB-ID is also the first watch to use 100% recycled Super-LumiNova for its dial and hands and 100% recycled silicon in its escapement. The gold hands and sapphire crystal use recycled materials, too. Panerai officials had to establish a new supply chain to make such a thoroughly recycled watch, and by publishing their suppliers, they're encouraging other watchmakers to follow suit and multiply the impact of their sustainable-watchmaking initiative. The example you see here is a concept watch that's planned to go on sale as a 30-piece limited edition in 2022.
Initial Thoughts
Sustainability matters, particularly to younger consumers (and, uh, to the planet), and brands are increasingly looking to make products more responsibly. Panerai even has an initiative, Panerai Ecologico, specifically for driving innovation in this area. The Submersible eLAB-ID is, of course, a part of that.
What's most impressive is that I can't see any obvious compromises made in its construction. It's a 44mm Submersible with 300 meters water resistance, a legible sandwich dial, and a case and dial made of aerospace-grade titanium.
While 3o examples of a single model aren't going to change the world, publishing the suppliers might. Panerai is providing a blueprint for not just its own future watches, but for other watches by other brands. This is an idea that needs to scale.
It's worth noting that Panerai is simultaneously announcing a more commercial launch alongside the Submersible eLAB-ID. For information on that watch, the Luminor eSteel, available in three 500-piece limited editions, head over to our story on that watch.
The Suppliers: Siltronix ST (recycled silicon), Sigatech (expertise with silicon), Eramet subsidiary Aubert & Duval (EcoTitanium), Pro Cadrans (recycled dial), Monyco (applying Super-LumiNova and collecting the material for recycling), RC Tritec (luminescent pigments), Novo Cristal (recycled sapphire), Ugitec (recycled steel), and Morellato (strap made from recycled plastic). Panerai machines the case, movement bridges, and base plates from EcoTitanium at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchatel. Every aspect of the movement, including assembly, product testing, and quality control, is performed by Panerai.
The Basics
Brand: Panerai
Model: Submersible eLAB-ID
Reference Number: PAM01225
Diameter: 44mm
Case Material: Brushed EcoTitanium
Dial Color: Grey sandwich dial in EcoTitanium with luminous hour markers and dots. Small seconds at nine o'clock
Lume: Recycled Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Recycled Grigio Roccia fabric with light blue stitching and trapezoidal EcoTitanium buckle.
The Movement
Caliber: Automatic P.900e caliber
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Diameter: 12 1/2 lignes
Thickness: 4.2mm thick
Power Reserve: Three days (72 hours)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 17 recycled and 5 standard jewels
Pricing & Availability
Price: $60,000
Availability: 2022
Limited Edition: 30 pieces
For more, visit Panerai.From the recycling bin to the wrist.