Vintage Watches: A 1970s Zenith El Primero, A 1966 Patek Philippe 'Disco Volante,' And A 1970s Breitling Chrono-Matic

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here . Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here . Want to sell your pre-owned watch through Crown & Caliber? Click here . This Week's Vintage Watches As the Introducing posts turn to Hands-On articles , these few weeks following the big announcements out of Switzerland are among the most exciting of the year to be a watch fan. For vintage enthusiasts, days until May auction season in Geneva become shorter and shorter, with auction catalogs coming out in full, highlighted by rare pieces such as a Patek Philippe ref. 2523 "Eurasia" enamel dial . This run of watch news is no coincidence; its timing is well thought out. If spring cleaning leads you to move a couple of watches out of your collection , an opportunity arises to replace the outgoing with that "fun, shorts-and-t-shirt" summer watch you've always wanted but never quite found. 1973 Rolex 'Red' Submariner Ref. 1680 1940s Universal Genève Dato-Compax Ref. 12495 1960s Wakmann Triple-Date Chronograph 1970s Omega Seamaster Automatic Ref. 176.007 1960s LeJour Rally Ref. 9312 1973 Rolex Precision Ref. 9659 'Sigma Dial' In 18k Yellow Gold 1960s Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Ref. 85004-3730 1971 Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 With Linen Dial In Two Tone 1930s Jaeger-LeCoultre Pocket Watch With Sector Dial 1980s Heuer Regatta Ref. 134.601 In Black PVD-Coated Steel 1960s Enicar Star Jewels Ocean Pearl Ref. 140/027 The variety in this week's selection is every bit as exciting as you've hopefully come to expect from one of our vintage drops. Spanning 12 brands, there is a summer watch in here for every lifestyle. Maybe you're the type to kick your feet up on the beach and sip on a piña colada? There's a Rolex "Red" Sub for that. A sailor? There's a Heuer Regatta for that. Find yourself at the track or at least on the couch watching F1 with the window open? There's a LeJour Rally and a Breitling Chrono-Matic for that. All of these, the three highlighted below, and more are available in this third April 2021 HODINKEE vintage drop – check it out in full here . 1970s Zenith El Primero Ref. A3817 By Rich Fordon It should come as no surprise that Zenith's El Primeros are among my favorite vintage chronographs ever made. Our product descriptions tend to get a little long-winded when an early El Primero comes around – there's just so much to dig into. Compared to the other "first" automatic chronographs, I've always leaned towards the El Primero because, well, it is "The First," literally. I'm not even a big dig-into-the-architecture-and-specifications-of-the-movement kind of guy, but taking in this caliber is really something. The big "ZENITH" text on the rotor and that little odd-shaped slit have always stuck with me. Covered back in 2016 on HODINKEE, the story of Charles Vermot is among my favorites in all of watch history. I mean, the guy changed watches forever by going behind the backs of his bosses to preserve what he helped create, the El Primero movement, because he believed in it so much. These are the aspects of vintage watches that really get me excited. Earlier in 2016, HODINKEE had published an A Week On The Wrist article highlighting the Zenith A3817 . Thinking back, this is probably the first time I saw the A3817. The reference is even rarer than its now-more-famous sibling, the A386 "Tri-Color" El Primero, and features a very similar dial. Where the two references differ is the case shape, with the A3817's "Cover Girl" style tonneau-esque stainless-steel case and the A386's more standard round shape. Collectors seem to have come around on the funk of the 1970s and covet these more out-there case designs. This example of the A3817 "Tri-Color Cover Girl" is in remarkable condition and seems to have been rarely worn. It was delivered to us on its original Zenith leather strap, which isn't cracked or heavily worn at all; the "ZENITH" branding is fully visible on the strap's inner surface. Finding one of these cases in truly mint condition is a real treat. The design really sings in its original geometry and finishing. Check out all the details over in the HODINKEE Shop now. 1966 Patek Philippe Ref. 3459 'Disco Volante' By Saori Omura Patek Philippe is more of a traditionalist when it comes to its design language, for instance, take the perpetual calendar ref. 3940 that I declared as my potential Holy Grail two weeks ago . This week, let's take a look at this curious ref. 3459. It still carries over the elegance that the brand's dress watches are known for, but the lack of lugs on the four sides creates a mysterious feel. Interestingly, it reminds me of another watch from the same era, the Rolex Zephyr, which is another atypical Rolex design. Perhaps there was something in the air in Switzerland? This 18k white gold piece with a wide-set bezel design evokes the same appeal as the ref. 2552 nicknamed "Disco Volante," or the flying saucer in Italian. Perhaps the lack of conventional lugs make the watch even more like a floating celestial body. The patina on the silver sunburst dial is just right – that hint of warm champagne hue you want on a vintage piece. The silver dot markers on the outer edge feel like perfectly lined up stars in orbit. I truly appreciate the subtlety of the dual-signed dial on this watch. The Patek Philippe and Arte Suizo (a retailer in Columbia) signatures just modestly skim over the dial and harmoniously become a part of the dial instead of vying for attention. It's also a bonus that the watch comes with the original white gold buckle and the certificate stamped by Arte Suizo in 1966. I respect when a brand thinks outside the box now and then without losing its core design values. The watch still reads as a solid Patek Philippe creation, but a little quirkier and just a little different, which makes this watch even more charming in my book. Head on over to the Shop to check it out. 1970s Breitling Chrono-Matic Ref. 2110 By Brandon Frazin I've said it before and no doubt I'll say it again – it's all about the details for vintage watches. This Chrono-Matic is a great example of that. To be honest, this is a watch I typically wouldn't gravitate toward, but when this came in and I tried it on, my feelings immediately changed. This watch has so much character and offers a combination of classic and funky elements that culminate in a pretty cool watch at a seriously good value. I love the classic case shape with straight lugs, but with the automatic Caliber 11 inside. It also has the crown at nine o'clock and pushers on the three o'clock side to give it that awesome Heuer funk that I dig so much. Another thing that's great is the 38mm, nearly 40mm, case size with the bezel – it's so versatile. As with many sport watches, legibility is paramount and Breitling really nailed it for this one. The orange hands, white dial, and black hour markers all work so well together and are very easy to read. This specific example has aged beautifully. The orange hands have remained vibrant, and the white dial has remained clean. The sub-dials have aged from black to an attractive brownish color with some patina, giving it a unique appearance. Another nice little detail is how the red triangle on the bezel at 12 has aged to a pleasing pink color – this goes well with the red accents in the three o'clock register. All in all, this Chrono-Matic has an undeniable vintage look that can only be achieved with time. In addition to the overall look and feel of this watch, the line of Chrono-Matic watches marks a historically significant part of Breitling's history. This was the point when Breitling, Heuer, Hamilton, and Dubois-Depraz were working together to create an automatic chronograph movement, and in March 1969, the Caliber 11 was revealed to the world. Breitling made a whole line of "Chrono-Matic" watches for the release to house the newly developed caliber 11, and the ref. 2110, was part of it. Altogether, this 2110 is a super attractive watch in a good size and offers solid value; check out all the specifics here .Happy Wednesday from the HODINKEE Vintage Team.