Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Quick Take The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight has been a popular watch with die-hard enthusiasts since it launched in 2018. It's compact, it evokes certain vintage dive watches to a T while carving its own path, and it offers a reminder that some of the coolest ideas percolating at Rolex-Tudor are definitely happening over at the Shield. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight has spawned variations, including a Marine Nationale-inspired watch just last year. Now the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is getting a solid yellow-gold case, olive green dial, and alligator strap with yellow-gold buckle. Tudor also throws in, for free, one of their really wonderful fabric straps that the company has made for them in France on antique looms by a company that also makes vestments for the Vatican. With the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, we get a new movement designation, the MT5400, rather than the familiar MT5402 that we've seen in previous versions of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Despite the fact that it is effectively the same great movement, there is a reason for this. With the 18k yellow-gold case, Tudor is opening up the back with a sapphire display. It's a most un-Tudor (and for that matter, un-Rolex) move, but one that feels appropriate for a $16,800 dive watch that you're unlikely to go deep diving with anyway. The new movement designation is there because the base plate was made a smidge larger in order to fill out your view from the open caseback. This isn't the only non-steel Black Bay Fifty-Eight dropping with clear back and a new movement either. As Stephen covered earlier, there is also a 925 silver variation. Though certainly not unprecedented, silver's an even more unusual metal for watchmakers. But hey, Tudor now makes Black Bays in gold, silver, and bronze. Initial Thoughts When I first saw the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, my first thought was: "Whoa, gold and green." It's definitely a color combination – really the color combination – most associated with the Crown, but this new Tudor diver puts its own spin on it. For one thing, the case isn't polished in the least. Its totally matte look instantly recalls that of an old gold watch that's lived a life before you got it. The dial and bezel convey a really distinct vintage military vibe paired with the alligator strap. It feels like something an officer stationed at a dry, dusty base might reach for. The water resistance is still 200 meters, and you can definitely feel safe diving with this guy if you want to, though we wouldn't blame you if you never even considered it. The Basics Brand: Tudor Model: Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K Reference Number: M79018V-0001 Diameter: 39mm Case Material: Yellow gold Dial Color: Green Indexes: Applied, luminous Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator and fabric straps. The Movement Caliber: MT5400 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Diameter: 30.3mm Thickness: 5mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Chronometer Certified: Yes Pricing & Availability Price: $16,800 For more, visit Tudor.Pick up the golden shield.