April 14, 2021
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Chrono Goldtech Blu Notte PAM 1111 (Live Pics & Pricing)
Quick Take
Panerai's major initiative at Watches & Wonders Geneva came in the form of a two-pronged approach to sustainability. On the one hand, it released the Submersible eLAB-ID , a concept watch made of 98.6% recycled-based materials, along with an open-source list of suppliers that other watchmakers can use to make their own recycled watches. And they backed up the concept with a commercial launch, the recycled-based Luminor Marina eSteel. Those are just two of the things they had for the virtual Watches & Wonders Geneva show. There was also an all-new downsized Bronzo – now a very wearable 42mm – and a line-up of automatic steel chronographs debuting the new P.9200 automatic chronograph caliber.
Panerai's 2021 push into chronographs, a complication that goes back to the original Mare Nostrum, continues into the live Watches & Wonders show taking place this week in Shanghai (April 14-18). While the first models to feature the P.6200 were stainless steel and featured a closed caseback, the watches we have today are made of Panerai's proprietary Goldtech alloy and have a sapphire back – though it is partially obscured by a wave motif.
Initial Thoughts
The Luminor Chrono Goldtech Blu Notte, or "Blue Night," is a big 44mm in diameter. With the trademarked Panerai Luminor crown protection device and a set of sturdy lugs, it's an imposing watch as you'd expect of a Panerai Luminor.
Not that one would necessarily want to swim with an 18-karat gold chronograph, but it's worth noting that the water-resistance rating of the new PAM 1111 is 50 meters, so it's probably best to stay on deck or land. The steel versions of the new P.9200 automatic chronograph that Panerai has so far presented feature closed backs (and are about half a millimeter thicker), offering a more robust package for those who actually want to get their watches wet. While PAM 1111 is being sold on a deep blue alligator strap that echoes the dial, Panerai is throwing in a rubber strap.
As you no doubt noticed, the rose gold in the Blu Notte case is Panerai's proprietary Goldtech, a special alloy with a higher percentage of copper and platinum. In addition to providing a deeper, darker color, it's also resistant to fading, a nagging problem for watchmakers working with rose gold. Several brands have their own alloys created with colorfastness in mind, most famously Rolex with its aptly named Everose Gold.
The Basics
Brand: Panerai
Model: Luminor Chrono Blu Notte
Reference Number: PAM 1111
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 15.1mm
Case Material: Brushed Goldtech case
Dial Color: Blu Notte (night blue) with satine soleil sandwich structure and white Super-LumiNova
Indexes: Sandwich-style with Super-LumiNova
Lume: Yes
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Deep blue alligator leather with trapezoidal pin buckle in satin Goldtech
The Movement
Caliber: P.9200
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Diameter: 13 /14 lignes
Thickness: 6.9mm thick
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewels: 41 jewels
Pricing & Availability
Price: $26,700
Availability: June 2021
For more, visit Panerai.
All Photos by Atom Moore.After launching steel automatic chronographs at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Panerai breaks out the gold.