April 07, 2021
Introducing: The Defy Spectrum: Zenith's Fresh Take On The Rainbow Trend
Quick Take
In recent years, the watch industry has embraced color more than ever before – from dials that run the gamut of Pantone colors to bezels set with a full rainbow of gems. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Zenith offers its take on the trend with a twist.
In the latest iteration of the Defy – which, as you might recall, really has no dial at all – the brand has given its modern El Primero 21 chronograph movement a colorful PVD treatment coupled with a matching gem-set bezel and rubber strap in five bold hues, offering an entirely new approach to vivid, kinetic vibrance. Each tone – green, orange, blue, purple, and black – is available in a limited edition run of just 10 watches, forming the new Defy Spectrum collection.
Initial Thoughts
The Defy 21 Chronograph has set a new standard for Zenith's El Primero lineup since its 2017 debut . In case you need a refresher, the innovative nature of the Defy 21 starts with a souped-up version of the El Primero that comes equipped with two separate escapements – one for the time; the other for the chronograph – each with a balance spring composed of a patented material called Carbon-Matrix Carbon Nanotube. The result is the fastest chronograph in current production and the only chronograph with accuracy to 1/100th of a second, beating at an astonishing rate of 360,000 vph.
With the Defy Spectrum, which hits boutiques in June, Zenith highlights this incredible caliber's mechanical prowess through a daring color treatment right on the chronograph movement itself. This one-of-a-kind design is achieved through an innovative pigmentation process using PVD coating.
Here, the skeleton dial is framed by a color-matched gem-set bezel with 44 baguette-cut precious stones: Green tsavorites for the green edition, orange sapphires for the orange edition, blue sapphires for the blue edition, amethyst garnets for the purple edition, and black spinels for the black edition. In addition, each colorway features a 44mm stainless steel case embellished with a whopping 288 brilliant-cut white diamonds, setting the ideal backdrop for the vibrant hues to really pop. Zenith has taken obvious care in selecting stones of the same size, color, and WS quality, and each stone is set by hand.
My first watch was a 38mm El Primero on bracelet, so I admittedly have a soft spot for Zenith. And when I experienced the Defy 21 in the metal a couple of years ago, I immediately added it to my list of grail watches. You can imagine my delight when I received Zenith's latest releases for Watches & Wonders and saw this fun and playful set of Defy models in five rich and dreamy hues.
Were I to jump on the rainbow trend, the Defy Spectrum would be at the top of my list.
The Basics
Brand: Zenith
Model: Defy 21 Spectrum
Reference Number: 32.9005.9004.05.R944; 32.9006.9004.06.R918; 32.9007.9004.07.R922; 32.9008.9004.08.R943; 32.9009.9004.09.R921
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 14.45mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Green; orange; blue; purple; black
Indexes: Arabic numerals and batons
Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova on hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap
The Movement
Caliber: PVD-coated Zenith El Primero 9004
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/100th of a second chronograph
Diameter: 32.8mm
Thickness: 7.9mm
Power Reserve: Approximately 50 hours standard timekeeping; 50 minutes for chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 vph; 360,000 vph
Jewels: 53
Chronometer Certified: Yes, TimeLab
Additional Details: N/A
Pricing & Availability
Price: $35,900
Availability: June 2021
Limited Edition: Yes, 10 pieces of each
Shop Talk
As you may know, the HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer for Zenith , so if you're looking to pick one up, be sure to check out The Shop.Arm candy complete with precious gemstones and a colorful PVD-coated movement.