Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534

Quick Take By pure coincidence, I happened to be in Tokyo when Bulgari announced its first collaboration with renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando back in November 2019 (and you can see HODINKEE Japan's great coverage of that drop here ). The all-titanium watch was a Japan-only exclusive and quickly became one of the most-talked-about and most-coveted watches of that year. Released quietly next to it was a 10-piece carbon tourbillon that has remained a more under-the-radar hit but is no less interesting. Today, we're getting a third Ando x Bulgari watch and it's another one very much worth paying attention to. The Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Ref. 103534 is still based on the 40mm, three-hand Octo Finissimo, which continues to find new ways to stay interesting year after year. The case and bracelet are made of matte black ceramic with a textured, sandblasted finish. The dial is a rich blue color with a lacquered finish, meant to recall the depths of the night sky. Taking that idea a step further is a yellow gold crescent around five o'clock that signifies the earliest stages of a new moon. In Japanese, this slim crescent moon is called Mikazuki , and it's a symbol of rebirth and the passing nature of time. We've seen these kinds of gestures to nature from the likes of Grand Seiko, but it's cool to see Bulgari and Tadao Ando put their respective spins on the concept. Powering the watch is the familiar BVL 138 movement, and you can see it through the sapphire caseback, which is engraved with Ando's signature for an extra flourish. Only 160 pieces of this watch will be made, though they're available worldwide from both Bulgari boutiques and authorized retailers (including the HODINKEE Shop). Even better news: They're available right now. Initial Thoughts It's going to come as no surprise to regular readers, but wow I love this watch. Do I love it as much as the original Ando x Bulgari collab? Well, not quite. There's a purity and clarity to that monochromatic all-titanium design that feels so deeply connected to Ando's architecture, while feeling very Bulgari at the same time. That relationship is still apparent in this new model, but with a bit of added mystery and poetry. To be honest, I suspect that for those very reasons, many people will find this new watch more approachable and relatable than its predecessors. It's all down to personal taste in the end. The two things that excite me most about this watch are ultimately finishes: The blue lacquer treatment on the dial and the textured sandblasting of the ceramic case. That should make for some pretty powerful contrast. You'll get a glassy, water-like effect on the dial and then that deep, light-absorbing treatment on the case to ground everything. The pictures look plenty good, but those are the kinds of things that can only truly come through in person. I'll be bugging my colleagues over at the HODINKEE Shop to see one of these in the metal sometime very soon. The Basics Brand: Bulgari Model: Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Limited Edition Reference Number: 103534 Diameter: 40mm Thickness: 5.5mm Case Material: Sandblasted black ceramic Dial Color: Blue lacquered dial with yellow gold moon Indexes: None Lume: None Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Sandblasted black ceramic bracelet with ceramic folding clasp The Movement Caliber: BVL 138 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Diameter: 36.6mm Thickness: 2.23 Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic (micro-rotor) Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph) Jewels: 31 Pricing & Availability Price: $18,100 Availability: Immediately, at Bulgari boutiques and retailers worldwide Limited Edition: 160 pieces Shop Talk As you may know, the HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer for Bulgari , so if you're looking to pick one up, don't forget to check The Shop.A moment of quiet contemplation for the wrist.