Introducing: Breitling's Datora Revival Hits A Symmetrical Sweet Spot

Quick Take A new vintage-inspired sub-collection inside the flagship Premier line. A new chronograph. And a new manual-wind movement. Breitling is really going all out for fans of vintage chronographs with today's reveal of its new Heritage Premier line. We've already shown you the new 40mm Premier B09 Chronograph , with its fetching pistachio green dial option; a long-awaited rattrapante revival, in the 42mm Premier B15 Duograph ; and here, we now have the Heritage Premier B25 Datora, a reissue of Breitling's original hybrid triple calendar chronograph model from the 1940s. Initial Thoughts If you've ever been charmed by a vintage calendar wristwatch, you're not alone. I probably check in with Saori and Brandon, the vintage specialists over in the HODINKEE Shop , on a near-weekly basis to see if any mid-century triple calendars are hanging around. Give me a six o'clock bosom-style moon-phase display (with the requisite Man in the Moon – no ifs, ands, or buts about it) and twin in-line day/month apertures underneath 12 o'clock, and I'll die a happy man. Even if you're someone who typically prefers the simple and sublime over claustrophobia-inducing dials with cramped scales and crowded totalizers, there's something to appreciate about a full calendar like the one featured in the original Datora references, and brought back today in the new Premier Heritage collection. The most common complaint about date displays is how they interrupt a dial's symmetry, but on a calendar watch like the Datora, everything is executed with perfect balance, from the applied Arabic numerals to the three sub-dials packed with information. Honestly, if you fold the dial in half, each side would fit seamlessly on top of the other. That's the appeal of good vintage design – it's proven to be timeless. Movements, on the other hand, are where today's watch companies can showcase the benefits of 21st-century engineering. And that's exactly what Breitling has done with the Premier Heritage Datora, unveiling the brand-new, manual-wind B25 caliber. Unlike the B15 and B09 movements found inside the new Duograph and Premier Heritage Chronograph, the B25 isn't based on the brand's B01 movement. It's actually the result of a 16-month development period between Breitling and Concepto, a movement specialist near Breitling's headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Breitling provided Concepto with a series of guidelines and attributes that they wanted the B25 caliber to meet, including an improved calendar drive mechanism for enhanced accuracy and reliability, increased points of lubrication, and various cosmetic updates including detailed finishes and a never-before-used design of the oscillating weight. Breitling is the first brand to utilize the new B25 caliber, and given their role in its development, they're even including their five-year Manufacture warranty with any purchase of a new Datora, something typically reserved for watches with the brand's fully in-house movements (like the B01). And just like the rest of the Heritage Premier lineup, Breitling is offering the new Datora in both 18k red gold and stainless steel. And while the precious metal variant with a warm cream dial brings a certain old-world elegance into the fold and will have plenty of fans, it's the stainless steel and salmon dial (Breitling calls it copper) combination that has caught my eye. It's really a timeless combination. I think Breitling has hit all the right notes – syringe hands, an outer tachymeter scale, cushion-shaped pushers – for this one to be a hit. Photography by Kasia Milton. The Basics Brand: Breitling Model: Heritage Premier B25 Datora 42 Reference Number: AB2510201K1P1 (stainless steel); RB2510371G1P1 (18k red gold) Diameter: 42mm Thickness: 15.35mm Case Material: Stainless steel; 18k red gold Dial Color: Copper; silver Indexes: Applied Arabic numerals Lume: Yes, Super-LumiNova in hour and minute hands Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Dark-brown alligator leather strap with folding clasp The Movement Caliber: Breitling Manufacture Caliber B25 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, day, date, month, moon phase Diameter: 30mm Thickness: 8.50mm Power Reserve: Approximately 48 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 VpH Chronometer Certified: Yes, by COSC Additional Details: Column wheel; based on Concepto movement design, improved with guidance by Breitling watchmakers and developed exclusively for use by the brand Pricing & Availability Price: $12,950 in stainless steel; $25,900 in red gold Availability: Now available for pre-orders in the HODINKEE Shop, with an expected May 2021 delivery Limited Edition: N/A Shop Talk As of today, the HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer for Breitling, so if you're looking to learn more about or purchase the new Heritage Premier B25 Datora 42, don't forget to check the Shop .Calendar connoisseurs, this one's for you.