Introducing: A Zenith High-Frequency Chronograph That Goes For Bold

Quick Take Are you ready for extreme watchmaking? It's always been out there, lurking in Switzerland's hidden valleys. But Zenith has gone ahead and brought it out in the open with the latest introduction in the Defy collection. There's a lot to take in here. Clearly. Zenith seems to have flipped a switch away from the hot-ticket Chronomaster Sport and vintage-inspired Chronomaster Revival models we saw in January at LVMH Watch Week, and into – well – more extreme territory. So what is it we're exactly looking at with the new Defy Extreme? Well, it's big. It's bold. And, notably, it's not a limited production release. The new Defy Extreme is a series-produced sub-collection of 45mm chronographs powered by the high-frequency El Primero 9004 movement. While the movement and exposed dial aren't new features in the Defy collection, we are seeing the introduction of a specific case profile that, in all honestly, somewhat resembles the maximalist, hard-to-forget Defy watches that were created and released under former CEO Thierry Nataf's tenure at the head of Zenith in the late 2000s. The Defy Extreme collection is starting out with three different variants at launch, including a microblasted titanium case with black dial accents; a brushed, polished, and microblasted titanium case with blue dial accents; and a microblasted titanium and polished rose-gold case with gold-plated accents. Zenith is also using the Defy Extreme to introduce its new quick-change strap system. As a result, each Defy Extreme is delivered on a matching titanium, large-link bracelet but also comes with an additional rubber strap and velcro strap. Initial Thoughts While totally unexpected (at least for me), this iteration of Zenith's Defy platform starts to make more sense when you think about it. Most people today don't realize that the Defy isn't actually a modern Zenith invention, although it does look like it. The Defy name has real history that dates back to pocket watches produced by Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot in the late 1800s. Inscribed on the dial of those pocket watches? Défi , or "challenge" in English. A few decades later, around the same time Zenith was first bringing to market its historic automatic chronograph movement El Primero, the Defy name appeared once more as a series of bold sport watches. These had sharp, angular case designs – just check out this 1970s example – and other technical improvements, including an enhanced ability to accept physical shocks and an improved resistance to magnetism's effects on daily timekeeping. They were rugged steel watches meant for everyday wear, and they featured a distinct design that preceded the large-scale development of the luxury sport watch genre by several years. Fast forward to 2017 (skipping over the Defy's short-lived revival in the Nataf era), and the Defy was born again, this time as the home of Zenith's continued experiments in high-frequency watchmaking. We had the Defy Inventor , the Defy Fusée Tourbillon , the Defy Double Tourbillon , the Defy Zero G , and of course, the Defy 21 series revealed as a new flagship. So how does the latest edition of the Defy 21 build on what is likely considered an already "extreme" design by most watch collectors? First, we once again have Zenith's electrifying El Primero 9004 chronograph movement, kitted out with twin escapements that enable elapsed timekeeping accuracy up to one-hundredth of a second. That means the central chronograph seconds hand is capable of making a single, lightning-quick rotation around the dial every second. (Seriously – if you ever have a moment to spend some time with an example of the Defy 21, you won't regret it. Interacting with these watches is a mind-numbingly fun experience.) Aesthetically, the lack of a conventional dial is not only expected for a Defy 21 model, but also anticipated – you want to see that secondary escapement go zoom . I don't think Zenith gets enough credit for continuing to evolve its signature El Primero movement. And that's what the El Primero 9004 is – an evolution. It utilizes an entirely integrated architecture based on the design of the original El Primero (pretty good for a 1969 creation, right?) but incorporates a secondary gear train with a high-frequency escapement that runs at 360,000 vph, or 50 Hz, as well as a second mainspring barrel. To recap – you have the normal timekeeping portion of the watch that is nearly identical to the standard El Primero, with its 5 Hz frequency, and then there's the secondary stopwatch-specific part of the 9004 that is isolated so it doesn't drain energy from the traditional timekeeping mechanism. The same is true for all previous entries in the Defy 21 line. But what's new here is the larger case profile that's graduated from the tonneau shape found on previous Defy 21 watches to a more sculpted, angular form factor that – yes – is octagonal in shape. This is, however, authentic to the original 1960s and '70s Defy models, which either predate or were released alongside the other popular octagonal sport watches of their era. I'll point you again to the vintage Defy that appeared in the HODINKEE Shop a few years ago – how many sides does the case have? Exactly. The bracelet also appears to be a new addition, one that immediately catches my attention for its strong lines and integrated appearance. And unlike most other integrated bracelets, the Defy Extreme allows you to easily switch between it, the supplied textured rubber strap, and the additional velcro strap thanks to its proprietary tool-less system. The Defy Extreme is unapologetic in basically every way. I think you'll know at first glance whether the watch is a fit for you or not. Those who do fall for it will fall hard. And while it might not catch your eye at first, you should still respect the Defy Extreme for what it stands for at Zenith. And that's over 50 years of high-frequency watchmaking, high-mech horological engineering, and no-holds-barred – ok, fine, extreme – design. The Basics Brand: Zenith Model: Defy Extreme Reference Number: 97.9100.9004/02.I001 (Black); 95.9100.9004/01.I001 (Blue); 87.9100.9004/03.I001 (Two-Tone) Diameter: 45mm Thickness: 15.40mm Case Material: Microblasted titanium (Black); Brushed, polished, and microblasted titanium (Blue); Microblasted titanium and polished rose gold (Two-Tone) Dial Color: Openworked with black, blue, or gold accents Indexes: Applied hour markers Lume: Rhodium or gold-plated, faceted, and coated with Super-LumiNova SLN C1 Water Resistance: 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: Microblasted titanium bracelet. Each watch also comes with a rubber strap and a velcro strap. The Movement Caliber: Zenith El Primero 9004 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/100th of a second chronograph (central chronograph hand makes one turn each second), power reserve Diameter: 32.80mm Power Reserve: 50 hours for standard timekeeping; 50 minutes for chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 5 Hz for standard timekeeping; 50 Hz for chronograph Jewels: 53 Chronometer Certified: Yes, by TimeLab Pricing & Availability Price: $18,000 in Black or Blue; $22,000 in Two-Tone Availability: May 2021 Shop Talk As you may know, the HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer for Zenith , so if you're looking to pick up a new watch, be sure to check out the Shop.A Defy that will blow your mind.