March 30, 2021
In The Shop - Shop Spotlight: The Tissot Watches That Redefine Our Idea Of A Value Proposition
The phrase "value proposition" is thrown around a lot in the watch space, to the point that you may start questioning its potency or validity. However, when it comes to the true meaning of this sentiment, no one quite embodies it like Tissot. For more than 165 years, Tissot has been unflinchingly dedicated to designing watches that look and feel elevated but at widely accessible price points. Joining the recently announced Tissot PRX collection in the HODINKEE Shop, we're excited to welcome three new collections of mechanical watches that perfectly exemplify this philosophy and fully live up to the term "value proposition."
Here, we have a perfectly balanced three-hander with a date complication whose movement comes equipped with a silicon regulation system for just $775. We have an absolutely stunning vintage-inspired dress watch offering a day/date complication for under $700. And lastly, we have an automatic chronograph with a date function and a distinctly retro vibe for $1,400 (and up).
You can check them out right now in the HODINKEE Shop or keep reading to learn more about what makes these three models such compelling designs for the money.
The Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium
The Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is a relatively new collection, first debuting in 2019. However, its aesthetic is utterly timeless, drawing from classic design cues and early to mid-century models in the Tissot catalog. While there's not a specific reference that inspired the Gentleman series, it's easy to see how the traditional three-link bracelet with polished center links, applied indexes, and neutral dial tones in black, silver, and blue give the model a look that feels like it's been around for decades.
Equal parts dressy and sporty, Tissot's Gentleman fully epitomizes the versatility an everyday-wear watch should embody. It features a classic yet modern round 40mm case with 11.5mm thickness that adds just enough heft while still fitting nicely under the cuff. The Gentleman also highlights an interesting interplay of polished and brushed surfaces, with a polished bezel, brushed case, polished bevels, and brushed bracelet with polished center links. Even the multifaceted applied hour markers are brushed on the top and polished on the sides. This mix creates that perfect balance between casual and elevated, all while adding depth and dimension to each aspect of the model.
Though the Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is quite compelling from a purely aesthetic perspective, the model really shines under the hood. In fact, according to our own Jack Forster , it's the movement powering the Gentleman that really makes this watch stand out compared to others in its category. Inside, you'll find the self-winding Powermatic 80.811, equipped with a silicon hairspring. Silicon is an incredibly beneficial material in watchmaking. It offers greater resistance to elemental changes like temperature while offering a lightweight and antimagnetic structure that requires little to no lubrication and is typically found in watches in the five and six-figure price range. Thus, the Powermatic 80.811 is far more than your standard Swiss Made ETA caliber. It builds on one of the industry's best-known movements, the ETA 2824-2, and improves its chronometry, reliability, and efficiency. The result offers more than double the power reserve of the ETA 2824 at an impressive 80 hours thanks to a stronger mainspring and frequency of 3 Hz. Altogether, the Powermatic 80.811 really drives home the quality of this watch for the price; at $775 each, the Gentleman is certainly one the most accessibly priced watches on the market to include a silicon hairspring.
The Tissot Heritage Visodate Automatic
The Visodate collection dates to 1953, when it launched as Tissot's first line of automatic watches with date in commemoration of the company's 100-year anniversary. This addition of a date complication took a once sleek and stylish time-only dress watch design to the next level with added functionality, thus making it a more ideal companion for everyday wear as opposed to just special occasions. However, even with the upgraded technical features, Tissot was able to stick to its guiding principle of accessibility and keep the watch affordable.
Each of these aspects continues in today's Visodate collection, now with the added bonus of the day next to the date. The polished 316L stainless steel case immediately gives the Heritage Visodate Automatic a dressy feel while also keeping the style period correct. Fitting with the aesthetic of Tissot's Heritage collection, the lugs are long and slender and the applied logo showcases the brand's vintage script. Of course, the model gets a modern upgrade from the original acrylic crystal to domed sapphire, giving way to the minimal and highly legible dial design with simple polished dauphine-style hands and faceted indexes. We have the modern Visodate in four different styles, with the option of a strap or bracelet and a gold, black, blue, or white dial.
You'll also find a modern update under the hood. Inside the Heritage Visodate Automatic is the automatic ETA 2836-2, which offers central hours, minutes, hacking seconds, and the day/date complication as well as a 40-hour power reserve. Altogether, this very capable movement coupled with this vintage-inspired design makes this one of the best dress watches you can find for under $1,000.
The Tissot Heritage 1948
The Heritage 1948 draws inspiration from one of Tissot's early chronographs that hails from – you guessed it – 1948. With this modern interpretation of a 1940s classic, Tissot has added yet another archetypal piece to its Heritage line. The brand has struck a careful balance between vintage and modern elements, resulting in a watch with near-perfect proportions that will continue to remain timeless and relevant for years to come. First launched in 2017, the Heritage 1948 remains one of the core models within the Tissot catalog. Today, we welcome it in three unique variations with a white dial and the choice of a bracelet or brown or black leather strap.
For the Heritage 1948, the devil is in the details. This model comes in at a 39.5mm diameter with 11.9mm thickness. At just under 40mm, the Heritage 1948 offers sweet spot sizing and just enough restraint. Next, you'll immediately notice the attention to detail with the design of the case. You have striking bombe lugs coupled with a wide, sharply sloping bezel with a polished finish. On the traditional right-hand side, you'll find a pillbox crown flanked by a set of rectangular chronograph pushers, each of which has a broad and flat design. This really helps the Heritage 1948 maintain its modest profile and seamless wearability.
In addition, there are several unique elements on the dial, many of which draw directly from mid-century design cues. Take, for instance, the simple railroad minute track that frames the dial. Then, your eye is quickly drawn to the 12 o'clock marker, which gets a bold applied Roman numeral that's underscored by the brand logo in the vintage script. The remaining hour markers are more subtle applied dots, and the date window is tucked in a color-matched aperture at the unexpected 4:30 position. Lastly, the recessed sub-dials receive a beautiful finish with hair-thin concentric graining surrounded by a polished ring. This subtle texture in contrast against the smooth, matte dial creates a great deal of depth and visual interest.
Inside, the ETA 2894-2 movement powers the Heritage 1948. You can see it partially through the caseback, which features a unique split display. The ETA 2894-2 is a worry-free, time-tested movement that offers easy reliability and workhorse capability, and here, the specific decoration and execution help take it to the next level. Altogether, it offers a quick-set date, hacking seconds, and a 42-hour power reserve, all for under $1,500.
Explore Tissot In The HODINKEE Shop
You likely know Tissot. The Swiss company is one of the world's leading watchmakers. But when was the last time you took a closer look at the brand's watches? Where so many other Swiss watch brands have increased prices to the point of becoming out of reach for most collectors, Tissot has pivoted with a focus on offering honest-to-goodness quality at approachable prices.
Now that is what we call a value proposition.
So, whether you're looking for something simple and straightforward like a watch for everyday wear, the perfectly accessible dress watch, or an incredibly affordable automatic chronograph, Tissot should be on your list. In each of their respective categories, the Gentleman, the Visodate, and the Heritage 1948 Chronograph are hard to beat for the value they bring to the table.
Head over to the HODINKEE Shop to check out these pieces in more detail, plus don't miss out on the new Tissot PRX collection.Three models for anyone, at any point in their watch collecting journey.