Hands-On: The Norqain Freedom 60 GMT With Two Sweet New Dials

Last year, the upstart, independent brand Norqain unveiled the Freedom 60 GMT – a true GMT with jumping-hour functionality, chronometer certification, a manufacture movement, and a price tag that hit the old wallet at less than $4,000. That alone caused a stir. And a further kerfuffle ensued when news broke that it shared effectively the same movement as the Tudor Black Bay GMT, promoting a larger discussion as to what exactly constitutes an in-house movement. We'll save that debate for another time. Suffice it to say that Norqain is making waves. And today, the brand has doubled down with two new variants of the Freedom 60 GMT: The Opaline, with a white dial and Pepsi-style inner 24-hour scale; and the limited-edition Forest Green with a bronze case. The differences in these watches from the original versions are purely aesthetic, but there's plenty to look at. The Freedom 60 GMT has an interesting take on GMT design, with its internal 24-hour scale and short corresponding hand. It's got the soul of outdoor adventure (including the brand's mountain-peak logo at 12) and the sophistication of Mad Men -era Manhattan. Generally speaking, GMT watches have the most fun, and they're almost always the most colorful. A lot of that has to do with the core functionality of the complication. Most 24-hour bezels (or scales, in this case) are bi-color to differentiate between day and night. This is how we got the famed Pepsi (and Coke, and root beer, and Batman) Rolex GMT-Master, a color scheme that's now present on the Tudor Black Bay GMT. The original Norqain Freedom 60 GMTs also utilize a bi-color configuration, but in a more conservative black and grey. These new releases liven things up. New Pepsi Looking first at the Opaline model, we see a familiar color scheme. The Pepsi (red and blue) inner 24-hour scale contrasting against the white dial gives shades of the elusive white albino GMT-Master of yore. The mixture of color and an almost stark-white background gives the watch superb legibility. The Norqain wordmark is raised off of the dial with a lacquer-like effect. Norqain uses small painted lume plots located beneath each of the hour markers, circumscribing the dial. This is such a throwback to '60s-era design. In fact, it reminds me far more of my vintage Datejust than it does a classic GMT tool watch. The brand uses old radium Super-LumiNova, which is why the markers have that yellowed effect. Against the white dial, it actually doesn't come across as faux-patina, but rather another bit of fun contrasting color. The particular Opaline pictured here is fitted to a stainless steel bracelet. In the hand, this bracelet has a silky feel. You can basically fold the whole thing into itself. The clasp has a twin-trigger release which feels secure. Bracelets – and especially clasps – can be hit or miss, but this one feels really good for the money, and the overall style melds well with the old-school charm of the watch. Enter the Forest The bronze-case model is known as the Forest Green for its sunray-effect green dial. Honestly, of the two, I prefer this one. Maybe it's because the Pepsi motif is so ubiquitous now, or maybe it's just because this variant works, really well, on its own. I look at this one, and I see a full-fleshed realization of Norqain's take on GMT design. It definitely has shades of Grand Seiko and the Seiko Alpinist. Instead of the red-and-blue inner 24-hour scale, Norqain is using a stark black-and-white bi-color configuration. Both colors pop against the green dial so you lose nothing in the legibility department. The red GMT hand really pops. On this watch, the old radium lume harmonizes with the bronze markers, hands, and case. Crafted from a bronze silicon-aluminum, the case has a definite gold or yellow look to it; according to Norqain, it will become darker as it oxidizes over time. The green dial's sunray effect changes in the light: Outdoors it shines a bright, almost emerald greed color; indoors it is far more muted, like a dark forest (the kind you don't want to be caught alone in without GPS). A surprising addition to this model is the black perlon strap with the – now-signature – Norqain stitching. The strap is developed and produced in Switzerland by BIWI and is vegan-certified. In a world where the word watch strap is often used interchangeably with the word leather , it is nice to see this kind of work being done. The strap itself is extremely comfortable. It is both sturdy and flexible, wrapping around the wrist without issue – and without the end of the strap extending way past the keeper. If you just glance down, you might very well think it's leather. Making Movements As mentioned, nothing has changed under the hood of the Freedom GMT. It still utilizes the manufacture caliber NN20/2 which is chronometer certified with 70 hours of power reserve. While Norqain does call this a manufacture caliber, it is important to reiterate that these are effectively the same movements found in Tudor's Black Bay GMT. Both are manufactured by a company called Kenissi. Norqain can refer to these as manufacture calibers because they do differ from the Tudor movements. Tudor utilizes a silicon hairspring in its movement, while Norqain does not. House or no house, this is a quality movement delivering true GMT functionality at a tremendous value. Final Thoughts Watches are supposed to be fun, and Norqain has more than delivered in that department. The brand has taken its GMT design and infused it with bold colors and striking dials. In the process, it's created a real alternative option for those in the market for a true GMT watch. Sure, it's in the same price range as the Tudor, but the design is so different that I think it has real merit and deserves consideration. The Norqain Freedom 60 GMT Opaline will join the ranks as a regular production model, while the Forest Green is limited to 300 pieces. The Norqain Freedom 60 GMT. 40 x 14.5mm stainless steel or bronze case, with bronze limited to 300 pieces. 100 meters of water resistance. Sapphire crystal caseback. Movement: NN20/2 with jumping local hour (made by Kenissi) running in 28 jewels and vibrating at 28,800 vph with 70-hour power reserve. Dials with applied markers and "Old Radium" Super-LumiNova. Perlon strap and stainless steel bracelet. Price: $4,150 for bronze limited edition as shown; $3,990 for steel as shown. All Photos: Kasia Milton Shop Talk As you may know, the HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer for Norqain, so if you're looking to pick one up , don't forget to check The Shop.Drink Pepsi, or take a walk in the forest?